The Whole Kingdom: How Scotland Reframed My Time at Oxford

Anna Liu ’27

During my spring semester abroad at the University of Oxford, an Intercultural Enrichment Stipend allowed me to travel to Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands. Visiting core landmarks illustrated how Scotland’s past continues to shape its present, which helped me develop a more nuanced understanding of the histories that formed the United Kingdom. Ultimately, experiencing Scotland allowed me to return to Oxford with a much deeper perspective on England itself.

England vs. Great Britain vs. the United Kingdom

This trip changed how I understand the nations within the UK. Before studying abroad, I often found the political and geographic distinctions between them confusing. Even while living in Oxford, my perspective was largely shaped by English students, as I had few opportunities to interact with peers from the UK’s other constituent nations. The few I did meet identified strongly with their home countries, offering me a glimpse of the cultural diversity within the UK. 

Visiting Scotland, however, provided a much deeper appreciation of these distinct identities and revealed how centuries of interaction between Scotland and England have shaped both countries’ political institutions and systems of governance.

The following five sites are among my favorites and deepened my intercultural learning by highlighting Scotland’s history, culture, and identity.

Edinburgh Castle

Beyond its striking architecture, Edinburgh Castle traces centuries of Scottish history through exhibits on the Wars of Scottish Independence, the Jacobite uprisings, and the lived experiences of prisoners of war.

When Elizabeth I died without an heir, James VI of Scotland, inherited the English throne as James I of England. He became the first monarch to rule both kingdoms. Standing in the room where James was born made this pivotal moment in British history feel particularly tangible. Although England and Scotland remained politically separate until the Acts of Union in 1707, James’s accession marked an important step toward their eventual unification

Living in Oxford has demonstrated the complexity of this unification firsthand. Most students still identify first with their home nation and often hold different visions for its political future. Even sporting events reinforce these distinctions; seeing England and Scotland compete as separate national teams in international competitions highlights how distinct cultural pride remains.

Holyroodhouse and the Scottish Parliament

Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, was once home to Mary, Queen of Scots. After a semester in England, it was especially interesting to hear Mary’s story from a Scottish perspective. Rather than portraying her as a rival to the English throne, our guide emphasized her tumultuous personal life, her significance as a monarch, and her lasting legacy through her son, whose descendants have ruled Britain ever since.

Just down the street, the Scottish Parliament reflects Scotland’s modern political identity within the UK. My time at Oxford had already given me firsthand insights into the UK political system, where my peers were highly engaged in current affairs and regularly attended talks by prominent public figures. Touring the Scottish Parliament reinforced that questions about Scottish devolution and the balance of power are not just historical artifacts, but active issues today.

Arthur’s Seat

Both of these political landmarks sit beneath Arthur’s Seat, the volcanic hill traditionally associated with Camelot and the legendary King Arthur. Throughout the medieval period, both English and Scottish rulers claimed descent from Arthur to strengthen their own legitimacy, deliberately intertwining myth with political authority.

Seeing Scotland’s modern Parliament framed by Arthur’s Seat was a striking reminder of how history, legend, and politics merge to shape national identity. I was especially intrigued to learn that Historia Regum Britanniae—the medieval text largely responsible for popularizing Arthurian legend—was likely written in Oxford. That unexpected connection reinforced how deeply intertwined Scottish and English history are.

The Scottish Highlands

One of the highlights of my trip was a tour through the Scottish Highlands, where our guide brought the breathtaking scenery to life with oral histories. We made an extended stop in Glencoe, whose dramatic valleys and waterfalls stand as the site of the Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. The Massacre deepened Highland distrust of the English-backed Williamite government and reinforced support for the Jacobites and the exiled Stuart dynasty.

A later stop focused on the 13th-century Scottish succession crisis. Left without a clear heir, competing noble families vied for the crown, eventually inviting Edward I of England to arbitrate the dispute. By selecting John Balliol as king, Edward asserted feudal authority over Scotland, sparking fierce resistance and igniting the Wars of Scottish Independence.

I was surprised to learn that this same King John Balliol was the son of the founder of Balliol College at Oxford. Interestingly, modern Balliol College is famous for fostering highly progressive, politically active students. Discovering these connections made the shared history of these two nations feel incredibly immediate.

Reflections on Cultural Appreciation

While in the Highlands, we discussed the British government’s systematic suppression of Highland culture following the Jacobite defeat at Culloden. The state actively sought to dismantle clan society by banning tartans, kilts, bagpipes, and the Scottish Gaelic language. In contrast, modern Scotland has embraced renewed efforts to preserve this heritage through Gaelic education, conservation projects, and the promotion of traditional arts.

These discussions about the resilience of Highland culture made me reflect on the ways that communities use structured traditions to safeguard identity and culture—something I saw mirrored in Oxford’s own unique customs. Traditions like formal halls, Latin oaths, wearing sub fusc for examinations, May Morning, and even the annual pancake races have survived for centuries. Participating in these traditions has demonstrated how localized culture can preserve history while creating a sense of belonging that bridges generations.

Ultimately, to truly understand one part of the United Kingdom, I needed to understand another. My time in Scotland complemented my academic studies at Oxford, providing a living historical and cultural context that could not be replicated in a classroom alone.

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